This article is a perpetual work in progress. I would appreciate any feedback I can get. I'll try to keep it up to date for a long time.
New York City has a lot of options for custom-made tailoring. I've compiled a list of as many options as I could pull together. There are some good online options out there, too, but I limited this list to in-person options.
Note that this is mostly just a directory listing. There's a lot of guidance out there about how to pick a tailoring house. All I'll note is to try not to get lost in quality -- if you're going to splurge on a bespoke tailor, you have to appreciate the house cut and other styling details. If you don't know exactly what house style you want, start with an MTM, follow bespoke tailors on instagram, and see what you learn over time.
Prices are to the best of my knowledge -- not many bespoke tailors advertise their prices online. If you have any corrections or critical additions, please do let me know.
Made to Measure tailoring in NYC:
Sorted roughly by price. Within MTM, fabric, quality, value, and customer service are worthwhile considerations, but don't ignore styling! You should like your suit! Also note that in many MTM shops, you will be dealing with a salesperson and not a real tailor. Tailors are better at measuring, spotting adjustments, and making changes on the spot. Salespeople are better at convincing you to spend money.
- Indochino (non-tracking link), very roughly $300 for a suit with frequent sales. Not great, but probably not the worst option.
- Men's Warehouse, starting at $360 for a suit. Avoid this option. Men's Warehouse is generally bad quality, bad service, and the hard sell. The $800 Joseph Abboud tier is probably not as bad, but still overpriced, unless you really need a suit Made in America but can't afford one of the good ones. You have much, much better options in NYC.
- Kashiyama, starting at roughly $400 for 100% wool. I wouldn't recommend the 50-50 wool-poly blends.
- Black Lapel, starting at $500 for a suit, $25 off with referral. Full canvassed line starts at $900. I'm a fan. See my review here
- Enzo Custom (non-tracking link), starting at $500 for a suit.
- MySuit, starting at $500 for a suit.
- Tailored Club, which... I know the owner, so... I'll hold my tongue. Starts at $600.
- Proper Cloth, Suits start at $675, known for shirts.
- Mohan's. Last I checked, it was 3 suits for $2000.
- J. Hilburn, suits start at $668. Filed for bankruptcy last year but still seems to be operational. Mixed reviews.
- Alton Lane -- suits starting at $700. Their prices are a little ridiculous now, they're using them to play sale games... Know what you're doing before you give them money.
- SuitSupply, starting at $700 for an MTM suit. Under fit, don't choose an existing cut -- choose "custom" -> "from scratch." They should be measuring armhole size and everything. Their salesmen often try to confuse you, but the value of a full canvassed suit (+$100) should be very good. They also try to push a skinny fit -- don't let them.
- LS Men's Clothing, suits start at $700
- Born to Tailor, suits start at about $700 last I checked, does men and women.
- Kent Wang, MTM suits starting at ~$750, good value. Tiny showroom. A lot of options. I mean a lot.
- Atelier Fugue, starting at $750 for a suit, known for cotton. See this article by Ethan M. Wong.
- Custom Men, starting at $800 for half-canvassed MTM suits.
- Imparali, starting at about $900.
- Bindle & Keep, starting at $900. They have a focus on body-inclusivity, so they're very prepared to make suits for women, trans men and women, and gender-nonconforming individuals.
- Acustom, starting at $900.
- Mad King George, MTM suits start at $1000. "Punk rock" spirit. Jason is a cool dude. This jacket is amazing.
- Sam Wazin, starting at $1000. They advertise free alterations for life, which is cool.
- Michael Andrews MTM suits starting at $1000.
- Mr. Ned, starts at ~$1100, has some big fans on styleforum.
- Hall Madden, starting at $1150.
- Alan David, starts at $1200. Claims to be true bespoke. This point is somewhat controversial, but my current understanding is that they're MTM, and not bespoke.
- J. Press starting at $1300 for a suit and $160 for a shirt.
- Balani, starting at $1300 for a suit.
- Cad & The Dandy's $1400 option is made to measure, not bespoke. They offer bespoke at $1700.
- Brooklyn Tailors, starting at $1600 for MTM ("special order").
- Martin Greenfield. MTM starts at $1500. An American treasure. All US presidents wear Martin Greenfield. Dude's a Holocaust Survivor. I would just love to have his name inside my jacket.
- No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara -- referral link for $25 off
- Franco Ercole
- Cego Shirtmaker, shirts starting at $225.
- Brooks Brothers. Used to be made by Martin Greenfield... Probably nothing special these days.
- Articles of Style, starts at $1800, MiUSA
- Thom Sweeney
- Alan Flusser, starting at $1500 for a jacket and $750 for trousers.
- J. Meuser, MTM suits start at $2450
- 18th Amendment, "MTO" at $2500 and MTM... presumably higher.
- The Hop -- shirts only, $400 each, relatively new to the shirting game.
- The Armoury does a lot of brands, but they're all expensive. My understanding is that their cheapest MTM suits, from Ring Jacket, run around $2500, and this is probably not a very good value. Of course, Ring Jacket is a fairly special brand, so if that appeals to you, go for it!
- Ralph Lauren Purple Label. I'm not sure what they charge for MTM, and it's also probably not a very good value, but it's a fashion house. In this same vein, many fashion houses do MTM or bespoke, and they tend to use more unique cuts or styles.
- I believe Oxxford does both MTM and Bespoke. RTW starts at around $4000, though, so don't expect to get MTM for cheap. Considered the best suits in the world, in terms of handwork -- cut is very much debateable. Made in Chicago, flagship store in NYC.
Bespoke Trunk Shows
Traveling tailors will come through New York City fairly often. Some of these options are truly great, and you should consider the breadth of your options fully. Derek Guy has recommended some options that he thinks are better than many of those with a permanent presence in NYC.
- Generally, you will either want British-style or Italian-style tailoring.
- For British tailoring, consider, among others, Steed. See this article on the drape cut.
- Italian tailoring tends to be less structured, often lighter, and often slimmer (within the category of quality bespoke tailoring). Excellent travelling options include Sartoria Solito (very slim), and I Sarti Italiani -- still slim, but they're working with Peter Zottolo to develop a fuller cut.
- American tailoring, for the sake of completeness, will often mean a sack suit. French tailoring tends to either be more fashion-forward, or else fall somewhere in the middle ground between British and Italian tailoring.
- Derek also mentions Rubinacci, WW Chan and Anderson & Sheppard.
- The Anthology does Bespoke starting at ~$2200.
- The Armoury hosts some trunk shows. I believe Leffot hosts some as well.
Bespoke tailoring in NYC
- LNC Tailor. No real web presence, but very affordable. 83 Baxter St #B. Reported at $1000 for labor if you bring your own fabric.
- Albert Lam. Minimal web presence, also very affordable.
- Custom Men claims to offer Bespoke suiting in starter fabrics at $1500. They're be making me a suit, and I'll tell you whether it's truly bespoke or something closer to MTM in more detail once I have it.
- Cad & The Dandy's bespoke offerings start at $1700.
- Brooklyn Tailors starting at $2000.
- Bhambi claims to do bespoke somewhere in the low $2000s, and that's about all I know.
- Michael Andrews Bespoke starting at $2000.
- Thom Sweeney
- J. Meuser, Bespoke suits start at $3450
- Lord Willy's
- Huntsman does bespoke starting at roughly $4800.
- Sartoria Gallo (Eric Jensen)
- Sartoria Vestrucci (Tommaso Capozzoli)
- Reeves (David Reeves)
- Genuardi (Joseph Genuardi)
- Manolo Costa
- Franco Ercole
- Watson Ellis
- The Armoury, does a lot of brands but they're all really expensive.
- Turnbull & Asser (non-tracking link), known for shirts.
- Leonard Logsdail, starting at $7,900 (as of this video).
- I believe Oxxford does both MTM and Bespoke. RTW starts at around $4000, though, so don't expect to get MTM for cheap. Considered the best suits in the world, in terms of handwork -- however, note that, in bespoke tailoring, styling should be a major factor, and Oxxford's cuts may leave something to be desired. Made in Chicago, flagship store in NYC.
- Brioni. Expensive.
- Kiton and Loro Piana seem to have either MTM or bespoke offerings. They will be hilariously expensive.no
Thank you to breakaway01 from Styleforum, and Derek Guy of Die, Workwear! and Put This On fame.